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While the pizza is the draw, supporting dishes are also worth a detour: Pickled octopus offers chilled, meaty tentacles served with fingerling potatoes and a bright dressing of capers, lemon juice, olive oil and parsley. Tomato sauce, salami, ham, onions, feta, anchovies, garlic and cheese. Every red-blooded Australian , rich and poor, grew up with a preferred regional style of this particular national fascination, knowing it as the very best. The crust meets two critical standards: A properly blistered char and a wonderful elasticity that is so often missing from lesser examples. Pizza is arguably our most varied and beloved culinary genre, one whose followers are a lot of the best and most opinionated, even though it remains among the best and most accessible foods there is. Fortunately, some restaurants have abandoned corny dough-tossing antics and turned instead to the great Neapolitan pie, which, and many more specifications, must be sized for an individual and cooked in a wood-fired oven. That accessibility and loyalty produces some tremendously spirited debate.

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